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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.